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	<title>365 Days of LX3 Discovery</title>
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		<title>Day 1 Macro Photography</title>
		<link>http://lx3project365.wordpress.com/2009/12/16/day-1-macro-photography/</link>
		<comments>http://lx3project365.wordpress.com/2009/12/16/day-1-macro-photography/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Dec 2009 21:28:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ben Page-Phillips</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Macro photography or close up photography involves getting the camera extremely close to the subject and capturing an image that is life size or larger.  The beauty of macro photography is that it captures a world of detail that the  human eye fails to see in a normal day.   Common subjects for macro photographers are [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=lx3project365.wordpress.com&amp;blog=8356000&amp;post=13&amp;subd=lx3project365&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Macro photography or close up photography involves getting the camera extremely close to the subject and capturing an image that is life size or larger.  The beauty of macro photography is that it captures a world of detail that the  human eye fails to see in a normal day.   Common subjects for macro photographers are water or dew droplets, flowers, insects and food.</p>
<p>Most compact cameras have a &#8216;Macro&#8217; mode usually identified by a tulip.  The &#8216;Macro&#8217; mode for the LX3 is accessed via a switch on the barrel.  The macro mode gives priority to any subject close to the camera so the further away the subject the longer it will take to focus.</p>
<p><strong>Depth of Field<br />
</strong></p>
<p>According to Barrie Smith, in his great article <a title="Digital Photography School" href="http://digital-photography-school.com/macro-photography-for-beginners-part-1" target="_blank">Macro Photography for Beginners </a> <em>&#8216;the best macro photography requires that you use the smallest lens aperture to gain optimum image sharpness and depth of field. Using a small lens aperture means you need more light, so you need to extend the exposure time to make a correctly exposed photograph.&#8217;</em></p>
<p>Barrie also says don&#8217;t get so close that the camera casts a shadow on the subject, the subject may also look distorted and stretched at the edges if you get too close and personal.</p>
<p>We can influence the depth of field (the amout of subject that remains sharp)in three ways:</p>
<p><strong>Aperture</strong> &#8211; The smaller the aperture (the larger the f stop) the greater the depth of field.</p>
<p><strong>Focal Length </strong>- The longer the focal length the smaller the depth of field.  At 24mm we have the greatest depth of field while at 55mm  we have the narrowest depth of field.</p>
<p><strong>Camera to Subject Distance</strong> &#8211; Your <a class="hiddenSuggestion" title="Wikipedia" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field" target="_blank">depth of field</a> shrinks the closer you get to the subject.  Get right up close and intimate and your depth of field can shrink to milimeters, at 20 meters it&#8217;s might be measured in feet, on the horizon in miles.</p>
<p>According to the manual the LX3 gets within 1cm of the subject at 24mm, its widest possible angle and 30cm when zoomed to its maximum 60mm telephoto.</p>
<p><strong>Steady Hand</strong></p>
<p>Working close up means the slightest hand shake results in a blurred images so a tripod almost an essential.  Using the self timer also helps avoid shake caused by pressing the shutter button.</p>
<p><strong>Equipment:</strong></p>
<p><strong>Tripods </strong>- when using</p>
<p><strong>Focusing Rails</strong> &#8211; tripod mount for easily controlling the distance of the camera from subject.</p>
<p><a class="hiddenSuggestion" title="Velbon website" href="http://www.velbon.co.uk/newvelbon/pages/accessories2.html" target="_blank">Velbon Focussing Rail</a></p>
<p>Ring Flashes -specialist flash for macro and close up photography that gives an even light around the subject.</p>
<p><a class="hiddenSuggestion" title="Ray Flash Website" href="http://www.ray-flash.com/products.php" target="_blank">Ray Ring Flash</a></p>
<p><strong>Diffusers</strong> -</p>
<p><strong>Close-up lenses </strong>- look and work in a similar fashion to filters, they screw onto the end of your lens.  The quality of close up lenses are not great but they are a cheap way of getting closer to your subject.  They come in various strengths measured by their magnifiation power,  +1.0 +2.0 +3.0.</p>
<p><a class="hiddenSuggestion" title="Hoya Website" href="http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/oef-12.html" target="_blank">Hoya Close-up Lenses</a></p>
<p><a class="hiddenSuggestion" title="Cokin website" href="http://www.cokin.fr/filtres6.html?=" target="_blank">Cokin Close-up Lenses</a></p>
<p><strong>Achromatic Close-up Lenses</strong> &#8211; more expensive but better quality option compared to the single element close-up lenses.</p>
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